Former HART instructor David May arrived at his first Tenere Rally wondering whether he’d bitten off more than he could chew. Five days later, he had his answer
I wasn’t worried about the ride to Batemans Bay. I was worried about what happened after I got there.The pre-ride nerves had kicked in days earlier. Eight years had passed since my only organised group ride – a road tour through Europe on a Ducati Multistrada – and now I was heading to my first all-terrain rally aboard a brand-new Yamaha Tenere 700. After six years riding Honda Africa Twins, I still wasn’t sure how I’d gel with the Tenere, and I had no idea whether I was up to five days of adventure riding alongside 40 other riders. There was only one way to find out.
The annual rally is run by RideADV, supported by Yamaha Australia and open to riders of every Tenere model. This year’s event began and finished in Batemans Bay, taking us through some of the best adventure riding country in southern NSW.
The ride south gave me a chance to settle into the bike. With my height at 175cm, the T700 is tall, however with the low seat option I found it quite manageable. The small screen worked remarkably well, deflecting enough air above and around me as I navigated through the city and onto the freeway. I rode it comfortably at 110km/h sitting or standing, finding the engine smooth, yet powerful and responsive.
Arriving in Batemans Bay, I signed on and rolled the bike through scrutineering. One thing immediately caught my eye; plenty of riders had arrived with their bikes strapped to trailers or tucked into the back of vans. This was starting to look less like a touring ride and more like a dirt bike event.
My confidence took another hit that evening. After finding an empty seat at dinner, I introduced myself to the two blokes beside me. One was Stephen Gall – three-time Australian motocross champion. The other was Scott Columb, who runs the New Zealand Tenere Rally and is also a former NZ motocross champion.
Yep, that wasn’t helping the nerves.
As the evening unfolded, we were treated to the history of the rally, the new Dunlop D908 adventure tyre and Yamaha’s soon-to-be-released 2026 Tenere World Raid. Stephen entertained the room with stories from his racing career and spoke about his upcoming autobiography. Thankfully, I also discovered there were about 10 other first-time rally riders in the room. Maybe I wasn’t going to be the slowest rider after all.
Walking back to the cabins, I fell into step with David Murray, better known to everyone as ‘Beak’. At 75, this was his first Tenere Rally too. We agreed we’d ride together at the back the following morning and take things easy.
Suddenly, things didn’t seem quite so daunting.
Day One: Reality Check
The sound of parallel twins rumbling into life beat my alarm. Riders were already loading up and heading towards the sign-on area while I stashed my overnight bag on the luggage truck, collected the Garmin sat-nav loaded with the day’s route and lined up for the obligatory group photo. Then we were off.
About 10km later the bitumen gave way to dirt. I pulled over to switch off the ABS and traction control before heading into the first trails. By the time I looked up, Beak had disappeared into the distance. I never saw him again. I want to ride like that when I’m 75.
The opening kilometres were exactly what I’d hoped for; a flowing mix of gravel roads and easy fire trails that let everyone settle into a rhythm. I tucked in behind a few riders, dropping back whenever the dust became too thick and reminding myself to keep left. So far, so good.
Then the rally reminded me why I’d been nervous. The terrain suddenly steepened into a series of soft, damp descents, each dropping into a creek crossing before climbing sharply out the other side. Five or six of them, one after another. Long, rocky climbs that seemed to go on forever. This was the sort of terrain I would have preferred to tackle on an enduro bike. The trick, I kept telling myself, was to stay relaxed.
The Tenere certainly was. It found grip to brake on the downhill sections and traction going up. A couple of riders blasted past, but I was happy to take it steady. The last uphill was particularly steep and rocky with a sharp right turn at the crest. When I arrived, there was one bike down with several riders assisting. No time to stop and help; I needed all my momentum to get to the top.
It wasn’t pretty but I made it. The Tenere impressed with a combination of good ergonomics, great suspension and engine with strong low-down torque and controllable power. I had never intended to ride it in this type of terrain, so making it through that vertical section was deeply satisfying.
Not long after, I caught up to a fellow rider named Sean Rapley, who was riding at much the same pace. His first job as my new riding buddy was helping me pick up the bike after I’d dropped it turning around from yet another missed turn on the GPS. That’s what friends are for, right?
The Tenere carries its weight high. If you get off balance, for us short-arses it’s tough holding it up. It’s characteristic of the bike and yet a small trade-off for its excellent off-road performance.
This was Sean’s fourth Tenere Rally, and as the kilometres rolled by he told me it provides routes and terrain he wouldn’t normally attempt on his own. Having the sweep riders and 4WD back-up gives him the confidence to take on more risk and stretch his riding ability. Sean was prepared for every eventuality; I had a tyre pressure gauge, rain jacket and some water – he had everything else!
By mid-afternoon we’d spent close to five hours off-road and covered around 200km. I spoke with ‘Crash’, the sweep rider, and told him I’d decided to bypass the final off-road section and cruise the remaining distance to Bermagui on the bitumen. I’d had a great day and was happy to finish early.
That evening, the dinner conversations all revolved around the day’s riding. For many of the experienced regulars, the conditions had been about what they’d expected. Some sections were harder than I’d expected. I’d certainly stretched my riding capability and proudly made it through.
Day Two + Three: Starting to click
I woke to the sound of heavy rain. The overnight downpour had transformed the route, flooding creek crossings and forcing RideADV to cancel the morning’s off-road section. Instead, we pointed the bikes towards Nimmitabel on the bitumen. Cold, wet, slippery and lots of fun. Right up my alley. Heated grips on, tucked in behind the little screen, I let the Tenere do what it does so well. The TC and ABS looked after things while the weather reminded everyone that adventure riding isn’t just about dirt.
The fast off-road riders generally wear motocross helmets with goggles (and tear-offs), but today was definitely a day for a helmet with a visor. Beak, Stephen and I skipped the afternoon off-road route due to the rain and went straight to Eden. I figured it was the only time I’d ever be able to keep up with those two. That’s another great feature of the rally; the flexibility of choosing which sections you want to ride.
That evening Stephen had everyone captivated hearing about how he sourced bikes for the Mad Max films and taught actors how to ride for the cameras. From the dust of Silverton to the deserts of Namibia, he’d racked up enough stories to fill several lifetimes.
The weather eventually cleared and with it came some of the best riding of the week; corners, no dust and lots of grip. Sean and I settled into an easy rhythm, following the GPS through forests and over mountain ridges. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing. For the first time all week, we caught another rider: Tom the German.
I waited for a safe place to pass, not wanting to spray him with rocks or mud. Then I missed the next turn, and while I was turning around Tom went ahead. I caught him again, passed him a second time… and promptly missed another turn!
When we eventually met later that afternoon, I apologised. Tom just laughed. Turned out he was new to adventure riding too, but is a skilled stunt rider. We found him later being filmed pulling epic wheelies. Never underestimate people.
One of the unexpected pleasures of the rally was listening to everyone’s stories over dinner. Every rider seemed to have come from a different background, yet we’d arrived for the same reason.
One conversation stayed with me: James had spent the day riding with three people he’d never met before, yet they’d clicked immediately. It’s something that happens when you’re fully focused and your riding competence is in perfect harmony with the challenge of the ride. Another day where, in a state of flow, riders and their environment are deeply connected and in balance.
I also discovered that there are unwritten rules when riding in groups. Passing riders and not spinning your back wheel to spray them with rocks is one of them. Slowing down after overtaking and making them ride in your dust trail is another. You can’t just push into the middle of a group riding together, either. James and the boys had another rider overtake the group one by one, and spray them with rocks, pull over, stop, wait until they went past and did the same thing again.
Needless to say, there were words in the carpark that night and someone copped a little of his own medicine the next day.
Day Four: More Than Just a Ride
By the fourth morning, the nerves I’d arrived with had all but disappeared. The kookaburras provided an early wake-up call and I was feeling good. I found the roads and trails excellent, with just the right mix of fast hard-pack, slippery damp muddy single track, and tight winding mountain roads.
Somewhere during the morning, I managed to miss another turn and found myself behind the sweep rider. That wasn’t supposed to happen. As I eventually rode past him again, I tried to hide behind my screen as I saw his arms wave furiously in my mirror. Another rule – but this one is written – don’t get behind the sweep rider!
I also smiled with satisfaction when I realised that even a few of the riders who wear goggles fell over today. Adventure riding has a wonderful way of keeping everyone honest.
The more I learnt about the rally, the more I appreciated the amount of work happening behind the scenes. RideADV owner Greg Yager had spent almost two weeks riding and researching these routes with a local guide who knew every trail, fire road and alternate option. I couldn’t map those routes in a million years – I’m reluctant to go down tracks I don’t know, in case I can’t get back up – yet Greg and lead rider Lincoln had worked into the night clearing fallen trees off the route.
That evening everyone swapped dusty riding gear for something a little cleaner as we gathered for the presentation dinner. There were prizes for everything from best-presented bike to longest distance travelled and, true to the relaxed spirit of the rally, even an award for simply being the nicest person.
Nobody was surprised when Beak’s beautifully presented 1985 Yamaha Tenere collected more than one gong. The bloke everyone wanted to be like at 75 also walked away with a set of tyres for covering the highest mileage, before capping off the night with the major prize: an all-expenses-paid trip to the 2027 New Zealand Tenere Rally.
The evening finished with a look ahead to future rallies – NZTR 2027 will head to the North Island in February, while Australia’s is locked in for the Flinders Ranges next July-August. Listening to those plans, it struck me that people weren’t talking about these rallies as one-off holidays; they were already talking about coming back. Now, I understood why.
If you own a Tenere, my advice is to go – so that you can be part of a community of riders, learn how to set up your bike, find out all about riding gear, and get priceless tips from motorcross legends.
Day Five: Looking Farther Ahead
The thermometer read just 6°C as Sean and I rolled out of Bega for the final day. The debrief with Stephen the previous evening had proved invaluable. Like any great coach, he hadn’t tried to overload us with info. Just simple observations: Look farther ahead, relax, trust the bike.
I’d also finally discovered the Garmin’s speed-adjusted auto-zoom function, which, as it turned out, was every bit as useful as Stephen’s coaching. For the first time all week, I didn’t miss a turn.
I was also more relaxed and found myself looking to the farthest point ahead, instead of focusing on my front tyre. Sean noticed we’d picked up the pace and were catching up to other riders. I was having a blast.
Somewhere over those five days, the Tenere had stopped feeling like a new motorcycle and started feeling like my motorcycle. Even the five-hour ride home later that day, in torrential rain and Sydney traffic, couldn’t dampen my spirits. Sure, loading the bike into the back of a warm van would have been tempting… but is that really adventure riding? That’s what this rally really is: a ride where you don’t need to carry tents and sleeping bags and can test, challenge and stretch your limits in the Australian bush with mates.
By the time I reached home, I was already looking forward to next year. Forget Europe. Bring on another Tenere Rally.
WHO IS DAVID MAY?
A former HART rider trainer, David has owned around 30 motorcycles since first riding a Yamaha RD250 in 1978. After discovering off-road riding in 2020, he recently bought a Yamaha Tenere 700. This was his first Tenere Rally.
TRY BEFORE YOU RALLY
When RideADV owner Greg Yager suggested I book into their Intro to Adventure Riding weekend, it felt less like a suggestion and more like a directive. He’d obviously seen me ride. So, with camping gear strapped to the Tenere, I headed to Mangrove Mountain in the Central Coast hinterland to find out what I didn’t know.
The format was simple. Following a morning briefing, around 30 riders headed out onto a huge variety of gravel roads, forestry tracks and easy trails, with regular stops for coaching, questions and plenty of practical advice.
What impressed me most wasn’t the riding itself, but the range of people taking part. There were complete beginners, including riders still on their learners, alongside experienced road riders taking their first steps off the bitumen. Bikes ranged from lightweight KTM 390s through to fully loaded BMW R 1250 GSs. Nobody looked out of place.
The Saturday night campfire was almost as valuable as the riding. Greg and the RideADV team spent hours answering questions about luggage, tyres, navigation, riding gear and bike set-up.
By the end of the weekend I’d learnt far more than I expected. I’d also booked my next RideADV event.
If you’re new to adventure riding, I’d recommend doing one of these before signing up for a major rally. You’ll arrive with more confidence, a better understanding of your bike and a much clearer idea of the equipment you actually need.
Check out rideadv.com.au for more information.
