Pedro winds his way through Ohio to check out the centenary celebrations of the American Motorcycle Association
Established in 1924 to protect the rights of motorcyclists across the nation, the American Motorcycle Association (AMA) – now with 250,000 members – remains the force to protect moto enthusiasts against such nonsense as the Consumer Product Safety Act banning the sale of minibikes, and attempts by the US insurance industry to refuse cover for sportbikes over 500cc.
Even in more enlightened times, proposals to ban motorcycles from using certain county and city streets remains an ongoing problem, according to AMA’s Public Relations team Joy Burgess and Keaton Maisano. Now in its centenary year, the AMA also administers over 70,000 competition licences, more than any such organisation worldwide. But the lobbying function of the AMA is unique.
While the Hall of Fame is dedicated to commemorating Americans from the world of two-wheels, Anzacs such as Kel Carruthers, who made an impact in the US, are likewise honoured; as is Burt Munro. Since the release of the epic film The World’s Fastest Indian, Munro needs no introduction as arguably the most celebrated motorcyclist in the world. Carruthers won the 250cc World Championship in 1969 but is better known in America for his influence as a race tuner and mentor to Kenny Roberts during his three world titles in 1978-1980.
One notable Aussie omission is multi-time AMA Supercross and Motocross champion Chad Reed, the bloke from Kurri Kurri who still holds the record for the most main event starts in AMA Supercross history – a record that may soon be broken by Jett Lawrence. Let’s hope Aussie siblings Jett and Hunter Lawrence, who have totally dominated the American scene for the past three years, don’t have to wait so long for acknowledgement. Then again, 15 years have passed since Mat Mladin’s last – and seventh – AMA Superbike championship title and only in 2024 was he finally inducted into the AMA Hall of Fame.
There are numerous other Hall of Famers with strong connections Down Under. Lloyd ‘Sprouts’ Elder won the Australian Board Track championship in 1927 and, only a few years later, Erwin ‘Cannonball’ Baker set a World 24-hour endurance record riding around the backblocks of Victoria. Much later, Dave Barr – a paraplegic – visited Australia, riding to all four extremities of the continent, including Cape York.
Perhaps the most unsung of all was Aussie Dot Robinson, who moved to the US as a six-year-old, later to become America’s First Lady of Motorcycling and founder of the Motor Maids of America. Later still, Dot returned to complete a 10,000km ride around Australia with her husband Earl – however, there was no doubt who was calling the shots.
The AMA Hall of Fame and Museum is not as extensive as many other collections in the US, however each machine curated has a notable provenance, including such rarities as a KTM-built Penton Six-Day and one of Craig Vetter’s Kawasaki KZ1000-based Mystery Ships. The museum is certainly a venue not to be missed if the opportunity comes your way. And don’t pass on the chance to ride through the Amish country which encompasses most of the rolling hills of Ohio.
The Amish are known around the world for their reluctance to embrace modernity; such as connecting to the electricity grid. However these days solar panels are used to power up laptops and recharge the batteries for the electric bikes that are replacing pedal power.
Bonnets, shawls and straw hats, together with the ubiquitous horse and buggy, remain. Real care must be taken over blind crests which, at varying heights, come at a rate of every 80m. With many of the rural roads barely 7m wide, with double yellows and absolutely no verges, this can make comfort stops problematical.
Postcard scenes of red barns and white fences alternate with maple forests and covered bridges. The village names (Fredericksburg, Strasburg, Berlin) reflect Amish heritage, as do Winklepleck Grove and Sugarcreek – home to the largest cuckoo clock in the world. Northern Ohio fronts the smallest of North America’s Great Lakes, a ride around which is a story in itself.
Dominating Cleveland’s Lake Erie waterfront, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame is an oasis of enlightenment for those who grew up to the sound of Rock Around the Clock. Early baby boomers were still in short pants when Jerry Leibler and Mike Stoller wrote their first top 10 hit.
Black Denim Trousers and Motorcycle Boots was a one-hit wonder for an unlikely trio called The Cheers and, one year later, an even bigger hit for French chanteuse Edith Piaf. On both sides of the Atlantic, what 12-year-old on a pushie didn’t aspire to a hopped-up sickle that took off like a gun? Or at least a black leather jacket with an eagle on the back.
This musical magic faded a little by the time a clean-cut quartet named the Hondells were singing a quaint little ditty about meeting the nicest people while riding 50cc Honda stepthroughs. And Arlo Guthrie seemed just a little too laidback with the soporific ‘I doan wanna pickle I jus wanna ride my motorsickle’.
Motorcycle music only returned to its roots with Steppenwolf’s Born to be Wild, the soundtrack to the most iconic motorcycle movie of all time, 1969’s Easy Rider.
Over five floors of music memorabilia, with many constantly changing displays, there’s always a joyous memory for everyone at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. A must-visit for anyone touring northeast US. As is Niagara Falls, where Lake Superior and Lake Ontario headed towards the Atlantic Ocean while I sat in the sun on the balcony of Queen Victoria Place, schooner of Steam Whistle Pilsner in hand.
Pedro on tour
THE WORLD has gone techno in the 40 years that have passed since William Least Heat-Moon wrote the masterpiece Blue Highways, however the backroads, small towns and characters he wrote of are still there to be enjoyed.
During almost 60,000km on rides and road trips across North America I’ve experienced welcome smiles at every single stop. As here at home, the more remote the region the friendlier the inhabitants; provided you’re prepared to answer questions about the size of kangaroos and the number of sharks. And be willing to share your Vegemite.
Americans speak English. The accents can cause a little confusion, but no more than in UnZud or Zimbabwe. Road signs are also in English and the highway numbering system is world best.
No surprise that the world’s first motel – the Milestone Mo-Tel in San Luis Obispo – was built in California. The first of now more than 100,000 located on America’s blue highways. Invariably you’ll find a Diner and a Restaurant close by; the difference being that the Diner rarely serves alcohol. Always look for the neon sign that flashes Bar and Grill and you can’t go wrong.
Motorcycle hire is available in most sizable towns and my one and only experience with Eagle Rider – a nationwide operation – was most professional. If you intend touring for more than a month, a ‘buy back’ deal might be a more economical option, particularly if you intend spending a lot of time off-pavement; something not encouraged by the major hire companies.
However, there’s no need to leave the bitumen to enjoy a great adventure in the US.
